Saturday, November 7, 2009
Agés to Burgos
The first part of the trail was lovely through oak forest, and it was a nice morning with the mist lifting as the sun went up over the hills, casting a soft glow over the landscape around us.
We met a couple of fun girls along the way - one from London, and the other from Germany, and we also ran into the Norwegian couple several times along the trail. We had coffee with the two girls at one of the most charming bar/restaurants we had been in so far - La Palomar - it was really cute, and the owner was very hospitable and friendly.
The last 6-7 km were tough, my blisters were acting up again, probably because it was getting hot, as we were walking into the suburbs of Burgos, then along the airport, mainly on paved roads. So after having walked all the way around the airport and the landing strips, we hopped on a bus the last few km into the center of Burgos. From there we had to find the Camino and the Albergue, and when we asked, a very friendly Spanish lady walked us to the street were the new Albergue was! We were touched by her kindness!
The big, beautiful new albergue is right by the huge, beautiful cathedral of Burgos in the center of the old town. However, the architect has quite obviously never tried to get up into the top bunks - it was impossible!! Very narrow ladder, and absolutely nothing to hold on to, so unless you were young, long-legged and had lots of strength and flexibility, none of which applied to Dorte nor me, you could not get up there. So we got two bottom bunks!
After having done our chores, we went out to look at Burgos and the beautiful cathedral. first we had some tapas, talked with my daughter Janicke on the phone, and then we went in to the exquisite Gothic cathedral and the attached museum - breathtakingly beautiful! With the stores open again after Siesta we walked around to try and find a shoe store - I had decided to try and get some heavy sandals to walk in, as an alternative to the boots while my blisters healed. It wasn't easy, but after asking at the tourist office I wandered through the big gate and across the bridge into the newer part of town, to find the shoe store, while Dorte went back to the albergue for a nap. - As I walked and walked, not finding the store, I asked two young boys in their early teens, thinking they might speak a bit of English, which they did. They were so nice and polite, and after assessing that I probably didn't quite get their directions, they walked with me until they were sure I knew where to go! So sweet! Then they went back to playing soccer! In the shoe store nobody spoke any English, but I managed to get across to the very nice assistant that I needed some sandals for the Camino. She brought out about 6 pairs in my size, and after trying them on, and asking her advice, I settled on an extremely ugly, but very comfortable and sturdy pair! I put them on right away, thought I might as well give them a test run!
On the way back the sunlight from the setting sun illuminated part of the cathedral - it was just so beautiful! - I took several photos of the warm glow on the spires of the Cathedral, before walking on.
When I returned to the albergue it was almost 8 PM, and Dorte was waiting downstairs, so soon we went out to the restaurant the volunteer wardensat the albergue had recommended. - It was our last evening together, so it was a bit sad, but it had been a good experience to share this part of the Camino. Dorte is now ready to do the remainder by herself, as time allows, and I will soon be used to walking alone again.