Walking from Calzadilla de la Cueza to San Nicholás del Real Camino

Today I had decided to walk to San Nicholás and do my laundry in a washing machine and dryer, so I could be relatively sure that there was no possibility of any eggs of bugs surviving, should I have any. I chose the longer route again, because it was away from the road, and much more scenic. Along the way I met several of the people I had been seeing the last few days, and I also met a couple of new people, among them a girl from Hungary.
The private albergue was lovely, the hospitalieros were very friendly, and most importantly there was a washing machine and a dryer, so I could finally wash all my clothes, including sleeping bag in very hot water, and then tumble dry everything hot, just in case any bedbugs or other critters had laid any eggs in my stuff!
Outside there was a lovely garden, and Susan from Canada was there as well, so we had a glass of Vino Rosado, enjoying the afternoon and the lovely spot we had found in this lonely part of the route across the Meseta. A bit later we were joined by Frederik from Holland - she was a new face - and the 3 of us were in the same room. In the next room were 2 Brazilian sisters, who spoke very little English, but I knew I had seen them before. Later a French couple from Bretagne came, and they got their own room, finally a German guy also arrived at the albergue. All 8 of us had dinner together, and somehow we managed to have a very lively evening with lots of conversation in many languages! - I am sure this international evening will be a treasured memory for all of us!

Carrión to Calzadilla de la Cueza

Today was the long 17.5 km walk without any villages at all along the long, lonely path across the Meseta, but the weather was nice, a bit cloudy, so it did not get too hot for the long, flat walk along the wide dirt track, without much shade.
It was not a very interesting landscape, barren fields and the straight track as far as the eye could see. I felt a bit tired, but made good time already checking in at the Brazilian albergue at 1 p.m. The tiny hamlet of Calzadilla is just a small farming village, desolate. However, I had a really nice dinner with Susan, Angie and Bonnie, all three Canadians, and a young, lively Mexican girl named Lola. One of the topics of conversation were the bedbugs we had all been exposed to along the way, and how to best get rid of them. We found out that 3 of us had gotten bitten in the same albergue Casa Nostra in Castrojeriz! We were wondering why not more is done to eliminate this plague, and part of the reason we all assumed was that the Spanish want to keep it hush, because the Camino is such a big money maker, and most of the little villages we pass through would have no way of making a living, if it was not for all the pilgrims passing through. It's going to be a huge problem next year, because it is a Holy Year they expect about twice as many pilgrims as this year! A good reason to avoid the Camino next year!

Frómista to Carrión de los Condes

I felt much better after a good night's sleep - the treatment was working, and I had no new bites, so I felt relatively sure at least I was not carrying any unwanted critters in my backpack or sleeping bag. I set out just before 8 AM and walked the alternative route along the river, it was a bit longer, but much prettier, and not on paved road. For a short while I walked with Franz from Bavaria - I had met him last night having dinner next to Susan and me.
The weather was pleasant, sunny, some clouds and a cool breeze from behind, as good as you can hope for here on the Meseta, which is usually unbearably hot or freezing cold!
I enjoyed the walk, especially as long as the path went along the river. Before Villalcázar de Cirga the road markings were a bit unclear, but I found my way in to the village and had an ice cream, and went in to see the 13th century Gothic church of Santa Maria la Blanca, which is a national monument, and very beautiful.
After Villalcázar the path went along the road for the last 5.5 km to Carrión, where I got a bottom bunk in the nice, well-equipped municipal albergue. I went out to find a supermarket after my shower, but I ran in to Franz and a young German girl I had met along the trail today, and her and I went on to find the supermarket together, after chatting a bit with Franz. Along the road we came across Susan, and after the supermarket I joined Susan for a drink, before I went back to the albergue, and then to dinner. I ran in to the Norwegian couple Sven and Lita, as I was looking for the restaurant with the pilgrim's menu, so we had dinner together, which was nice.

From Boadilla to Fromista

As I walked along the track that followed the channel I was not feeling all that great - bedbugs! - I still doubted it, but since I have no experience with them, maybe he was right? I remember that Theresa at the albergue the previous morning had said she thought she had gotten bitten that night. I decide a doctor's visit was a must, and walk on hoping there was a doctor in the next town of Fromista. As I enter the town I saw a cafe, and there I meet up with David and the sweet Canadian girl I met yesterday at the albergue. They looked at my hands, and both agreed - doctor's visit! A Finnish lady I met yesterday at the albergue also joined us for coffee, and she chimed in - go to the doctor! I asked the waitress at the cafe if there was a doctor in town, and was happy to hear that there was indeed! She explained how to find the medical center, and David kindly offered to come along, if I needed him to translate, but I thanked him for his kind offer. I was quite sure I would be fine.
I found the medical center easily - it was on the opposite side of the albergue as I had walked in to town, but at the time, of course, I had not noticed it. I got in and managed to explain to the receptionist that I needed to see a doctor, and she told me I had an appointment around 1 PM, but since I am not a EU citizen I would have to pay myself -somewhere around 75 Euros for the appointment. Oh well, it's only money, and I just wanted to feel better, and find out what's going on.
I decided I might as well go back to the center of town and get accommodations taken care off. I got a bunk at the albergue, after having first tried to get a private room at a hostal. However, after she had noticed my hands with all the blisters, she told me no! I am sure you can imagine, how I felt - like a pariah! At least the Municipal Albergue accepted me, for a second I was afraid nobody would let me get a bed for the night!
I went back to the medical center and found my name on one of the appointment lists on the wall, so at least I knew which doctor I was scheduled with. When it was my turn I was greeted by a kind female doctor, and of course, I did not have to explain much, for her to understand what my problem was. She said it was an allergic reaction to bedbug bites, and she would give me something for the itching and swelling immediately. She gave me a cortisone shot and then wrote me a prescription for antihistamines and an anti-itch cream. Then she told me I should wash all my clothing and sleeping bag in very hot water. At the albergue all that was available was the outside wash basins with cold water for our laundry, so I hung my sleeping bag out to air at least, and decided that the next albergue would have to be one with a washer and dryer. I did my laundry as best I could with the poor washing facilities of this albergue, then I went out to see the beautiful church of San Martin, which is considered one of the most perfect Romanesque churches in all of Spain with its many carved figures all around the exterior. Afterwards it was time to find a place for a glass of wine before dinner, to cheer myself up, after a really tough day! I met a Canadian lady named Susan outside the cafe right next to the albergue, and we ended up having a glass of wine together, and then dinner. Spanish Adrian joined us for a short while - Susan knew him also! The poor guy was not feeling well at all, still suffering with his feet, among many other ailments! He was making fun of himself, telling how he would call his aunt, who was the family's healer, and tell her about all his ailments!
After listening to his story of suffering, I sure felt a lot better, bless his Spanish broken heart!

Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino

I walked out in the foggy pre-dawn, and just as I left Castrojeriz the church bells struck 8 AM. It was a long, uphill walk to the top of a big hill - and there were Spanish "Camino angels" with coffee, fruits, etc. - donativo - very nice! - Just before I reached them, I had enjoyed watching a little flock of what I later found out were Red-legged Partridges in the stubble of the harvested wheat fields. There were empty fields as far as I could see - this was really the Meseta - lonely and barren, with it's own beauty. The sun started to break through as I went down the hill, then up another, smaller hill.
I passed by hospital de San Nicholas - a beautiful small refugio right by the bridge over the river Pisuega. I went on and had coffee and a bocadillo in the next small village of Itero de la Veja.
After another lonely 8 km I reached Boadilla and found the beautiful albergue David had mentioned the night before. It was right by the church of Santa Maria, and from the outside it didn't look like much, but once you walked through the old gate it's like an oasis in the middle of this lonely part of Spain. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon, and as I went in to check in, I was told by the very kind and charming wardens to just take it easy, shower, etc. and then come over to check in and pay for the night - no need to rush! How nice a welcome! The grounds were beautiful, including a little wading pool with cold water - perfect for a foot soak to cool-off those hot weary feet.
My rash or whatever it was, was acting up again, so I treated myself to the luxury of having my laundry done in the washing machine! Dinner was delicious, but my hands and arms were getting worse and the itching did not ease much, even after taking the antihistamine. I didn't sleep well, and got up late, so I had to scramble to get packed up to go. I talked with Eduardo, one of the wardens and he said he thought it was bedbug bites, and I should get treatment! Yikes!

From Hontanas to Castrojeriz

I woke up early and took my time packing as today was a short 10 km day.
After coffee and 1/2 bocadillo I set out in the pre-dawn light and soon Michael caught up with me, and we walked along together for a short while chatting, before he resumed his fast pace and walked ahead.
Again it was a nice, pleasant day, as the sun came up and a cool breeze was at my back - perfect walking weather! I stopped at the ruins of the Convent of San Antón, which was used from 1146 to 1791 by monks specializing in caring for pilgrims suffering from 'Saint Anthony's Fire". It was a beautiful spot, and you could tell it had been a huge place - even the ruins were quite impressive!
Soon I was in Castrojeriz, an old Roman town probably founded by Julius Caesar. It is built in layers around a hill, which is evident as you approach. Since it was just past 10 am, I went in to see the big church at the beginning of town called Santa Maria de Manzano, before I continued in through the narrow streets, until I came to the albergue I wanted to stay at. It was still closed, so I walked on the find the super mercado and pharmacy. On the way I stopped at the bar & restaurant El Taberna for coffee. I ended up making reservation for the pilgrim's dinner that night. The bar keeper was really friendly, and told me that it filled up quickly at night, so best make reservations - turned out he was absolutely right! I continued my search. Even though it was fairly small village, it was quite spread out, so I had to ask several people, before I found the stores.
After shopping I went back to wait by the albergue, and soon found out that I had misunderstood what I had been told. It opened at 12 Noon, not 2 PM, so then I went over to check in after a group of Koreans had disappeared inside.
The warden was very friendly, and I got to pick my bunk, bottom, of course, next to an Australian lady from Queensland and a friendly American guy, David, who told me he had lived in a small Andalusian village for about 18 years. When I asked him the name of the village he said Frigiliana - which is the very village I have known for more than 30 years, as it is a charming "white" mountain village right above El Capistrano, where my family has a house!! Uncanny! David gave me a gift of the "Hand Of Fatima" with Christian, Muslim and Jewish symbols engraved on it - a gift of good luck he said. He told me he had designed it himself, and you have to receive it as a gift for it to bring you good luck!
Later we sat at the same table for dinner - the bar keeper had put name tags on the table settings on the tables in the restaurant - trying to pair up pilgrims according to language and nationality! - I found that so thoughtful and sweet! As David and I talked I learned that he worked on the local English radio station in Nerja, and he offered to do a free ad about my workshops on his radio station, if I sent him the information! Of course I followed up, and Janicke mailed off brochures and flyer to him for me! This meeting was another gift of the Camino!
The Norwegian couple was in the village also, I met them in the afternoon, and then again at dinner. They sent me fresh greetings from my sister Dorte, whom they had run into in Burgos, after I had walked on.
After dinner David, Theresa and I traded foot massages, what a treat!

From Rabé de las Calzadas to Hontanas

After breakfast at the albergue I set out right around 8 AM, just at daybreak, and the light was lovely! I was so inspired that I stopped just as I was walking out of the village to do a quick sketch of a beautiful scene of the outline of a small chapel with cypress trees around, just as the first soft, warm rays of the sun started to light up the scene. I look forward to doing a "real" painting of this scene!
I have not painted and sketched as much as I thought I would, just as I have found that keeping my blog up-to-date while walking is too difficult. First of all there is the physical factor of just being too tired, but more so it is a matter of availability of Internet that makes it difficult. Many villages does not have internet at all, or if they do, the connections are very slow, often the browsers are so outdated that I cannot even open my blog. Secondly, there are at least a dozen other pilgrims that want to get on-line also, so I don't feel it right to take up more that max 1/2 hour, so that puts a stop to many attempts to post blogs. So I have resigned myself to writing extensive notes in my journal, and then I will have a lot of catching up to do, when I have reached my goal!
I am finding that there is a lot more to write about, than I had thought when I set out - I figured "how much will there be to tell, when you just walk most of the day by yourself! " Well, a lot!
As far as sketching and painting go, I thought I would sit down during my days and sketch a lot, but even though there are certainly many, many beautiful scenes along the way, there are hardly any places that are suitable for sitting down and painting, and the thought of getting the backpack off, getting my little travel set out, and sitting on the ground or on a rock just seems too hard, and there is always the little voice saying: "Better not arrive too late, or you won't get a bed for tonight, there will only be cold water left for your shower, and everything will be wet in the bathrooms". As I am sure you can imagine, when there is usually about at least 30 people to one shower, towards the end nothing, and I mean absolutely nothing is dry, the floors are swimming, and it really is not too appealing! The Romans had this whole drain thing worked out, but somehow that knowledge seems to have been lost, since most of the showers I have encountered so far, have water running everywhere in the whole bathroom after a couple of people have showered. There is usually a mop around, but somehow nobody seems to get the idea that they are supposed to mop up the water after showering!
After walking about 8 km I reached the first village Hornillos del Camino. Along the way I walked with the Irish lady for a while, so time went quickly as we walked and talked. In Hornillos there was a little store, and I bought an apple and a banana, and then I met up with her and a Spanish guy for coffee at the cafe. I ordered a bocadillo to go, as the next stretch of 10 km only had one mid-point stop, San Bol, which would most likely be closed for the season. Later I heard it was still open for pilgrims, and it is a very special place, but I have also heard there are no toilet facilities, you "go" in the field across the albergue, and that's just pushing limits I am not ready to push! It's just too unsanitary for my taste, no matter how spiritual and wonderful the place is otherwise!
So I sat in a haystack on a field and enjoyed my little picnic lunch, resting my tired feet and bracing myself for another 5 km along the trail on the lonely and barren Meseta, which holds a beauty of its own. I walked and walked, nothing looked remotely like a village coming up, and not until about 1/2 mile from the village of Hontanas did it appear, as it was hidden in a little fold in the endless Meseta. Several times along the way I had passed the Spanish guy with the big backpack that Dorte and I had met also, and he was in a lot of pain, so as we were walking, and thinking we should see the village up ahead, he kept saying "Where is it?" and I kept telling him: "It'll be there, don't worry!" We were both happy when it suddenly appeared out of nowhere it seemed!
We both checked in to the private albergue Méson Puntido - and got the first beds - I got a nice bottom bunk by the window - my favorite spot! Then off to shower and do laundry, before it got crowded. Afterwards I walked around the tiny village and met the older German couple and several other pilgrims I have met over the last few days. I also met a nice French lady - Francoise, who spoke excellent English - she was in the same bunk room as me, and she was doing her stretches - and told me I should do stretches too! -She was right, of course, and so I did, but I must admit I have not been good about stretching, which I am sure would take some of the stiffness at the end of the day, so I really don't know why I don't do it!
Before dinner I had time to write in my journal, while enjoying a glass of wine, there was internet as well, so I did my best to catch up on emails, Facebook and Blog!
At dinner I was happily surprised as German Michael, whom I had met at my very first pilgrim's meal back in St. Jean - we were joined by the Spanish guy with the big backpack - I now finally learned that his name was Adrian - and he's a sailor, and spoke English quite well, and he is a funny guy - nursing a broken heart, I think! It was also fun catching up with Michael, I was so surprised to see him, as he walks much faster than I, but he had taken a few days off in Pamplona, LoGroño and Burgos, and he had also been sick, so that's why. I am learning that is one of the joys of the Camino - suddenly running into someone you thought you would never see again! Some days you are among all new faces, and then suddenly, like tonight, you are surrounded by people you thought you had lost!
My "bunk mate" is Manuela from Hungary, she speaks fluent German, and she is also an artist, so we had a great conversation right before bedtime about art and life. It was a great day all around with lots of great people!